Jamaican food, and the story behind it

Where the national dishes actually came from — and, for the people who cook them for a living, how to run a sharper shop.

Food & culture

7 min read

Ackee and Saltfish: The Real History of Jamaica’s National Dish

One half of the plate crossed the Atlantic on a slave ship. The other was salted on the coast of Newfoundland. Here is how they met on a Jamaican breakfast plate.

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7 min read

Jerk: The Maroon Cooking Method That Outlived an Empire

Jerk is not a sauce. It is a technique invented by people hiding in the Cockpit Country, built on a spice that grows almost nowhere else on earth.

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6 min read

Why Jamaicans Call Rice and Peas the Coat of Arms

It is on the plate every Sunday, it is made with beans rather than peas, and its ancestry runs from West African rice fields to Pacific coconuts.

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6 min read

Curry Goat: What Indian Indentureship Left on the Jamaican Plate

Jamaican curry does not taste like Indian curry, and the reason is a specific date: 1845, when the first indentured labourers arrived from India.

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6 min read

The Patty and Coco Bread: How Jamaica Invented Carbohydrate on Carbohydrate

A Cornish pasty went to the Caribbean, picked up turmeric and scotch bonnet, and then someone decided to serve it inside bread. They were right.

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6 min read

Escovitch Fish and Bammy: Probably the Oldest Plate in Jamaica

A Persian vinegar technique that reached Jamaica through Spain, served on a cassava flatbread the Taino were making before Columbus arrived.

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6 min read

Oxtail: How a Throwaway Cut Became the Most Expensive Thing on the Menu

For most of its history oxtail was what you got when you could not afford meat. Now it costs more per pound than steak. Here is what happened in between.

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5 min read

Sorrel: The West African Flower That Became Jamaica’s Christmas

It is not the leafy sorrel of English gardens, it is not the flower, and the reason it belongs to Christmas is pure agriculture.

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6 min read

Blue Mountain Coffee: Why One Jamaican Hillside Sets the World Price

Introduced in 1728, grown in cloud, protected by law, and bought in bulk by Japan. The story of how a mountain range became a trademark.

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6 min read

Breadfruit: The Tree at the Centre of a Mutiny

The most famous mutiny in maritime history happened on a voyage to fetch a tree — and that tree ended up on the Jamaican plate.

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5 min read

Soup Saturday: Why Jamaica Sets Aside a Day for a Pot

Red peas soup, chicken foot, mannish water and a fistful of spinners. The most economical cooking in Jamaica happens on a Saturday.

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5 min read

The Anatomy of a Jamaican Sunday Dinner

Rice and peas at the centre, a stewed meat beside it, plantain on the edge. Every element on the plate is there for a reason.

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For cook shop owners